Swimmers, seals, and sunshine – a source to sea journey with the Thames

The beginning of the Thames - a dry riverbed

The Thames carves a 232-mile journey across England which, this June, I was lucky enough to walk. Over 23 days of scorchingly hot sunshine, I journeyed with the River from source to sea, watching it grow from a dry riverbed to a full-bodied estuary. Walking under relentless sun, thoughts of drought and concentrated river pollution were never far from my mind. The Thames is certainly a river under threat yet flowing through and besides its waters is much cause for hope. Countless people enjoyed the River, dwelling on boats, fishing from its banks, swimming in its cool. Amongst these people other creatures went about their lives. Damselflies flitted between reeds, Cuckoos chimed from the trees and otters played joyfully. In the estuary, crabs, oystercatchers and seals reflected the arrival of a new, saltier world that would eventually transform into the North Sea.

A seal bobbing in the Thames estuary - Kent.

In a project seeking to understand what the River Thames means to its swimmers, it feels essential to get to know the Thames itself – a process that I have only just begun and one I sense I will never fully complete. As I grew up near Oxford, walking the length of the River has helped me to get to know its character more deeply, witnessing firsthand its transformations from a sweet bucolic stream of the Cotswolds to the powerful, symbolic channel of the nation’s capital.

My fieldwork equipment - field diary and guidebook.

During my journey, I wove together multiple methods to attempt to listen to this River and the stories it has to tell us. At the beginning of each day, I would stop for peaceful moments of observation, taking video recordings of the waters of the River and its surroundings. I worked to maintain this attentiveness as I walked with the River, taking samples twice daily to record nitrate and phosphate concentrations. As each day drew to a close, I would swap weary feet for a soon to be weary hand, spending a few hours writing up my reflections and thoughts. I’d think about the character of the River, the beings I’d encountered, and how I had felt walking with these waters. My field diary and guidebook soon became my most prized possessions.

As many have observed, walking allows us to journey slowly through the world, our minds wandering with our feet. Over the 23 days, I relished the time that I was able to dedicate to getting to know the Thames. The River was my one constant companion during this adventure, its waters never far from my feet. Various people were also kind enough to join me for sections of the walk, allowing me to share my experiences with them and, often, sharing their knowledge and stories of the River with me.

Over the coming months, I will be thinking through this source to sea journey, sharing my reflections here. I’m also beginning to meet the swimmers of the Thames, sharing dips and adventures as the seasons turn. If you are a Thames swimmer who wants to take part in this project, don’t hesitate to reach out – I would love to hear your watery stories.